Throttle Body Swap
E-mail jmX with corrections
Click here for a printable version
|
Throttle body swap-out The Parts we'll be installing: |
| Mike Morgan ported throttle body |
What you'll need:
|
- Flathead screwdriver - T-20 starhead screw screwdriver or socket - 10 mm socket - Socket Wrench - 3" Socket Extension - Pliers |
Lets begin:
|
First, as with all car work, go ahead and disconnect the negative terminal on the battery. Next, remove the intake lid, MAF, and tubing between the MAF and throttle body. If you don't know how to do this, see my LID/MAF install doc. Once this is done, your engine bay should resemble the picture on the left. |
|
Disconnect both connectors to the 2 sensors mounted on the tb. These come off just like the MAF and IAT sensors did...piece of cake. |
|
The next step is to remove both sensors. Each one is held on by two screws that require a T-20 star driver. I picked up one of these at the local hardware store. The star screws on the top sensor are easy to get off, but the bottom most screw on the bottom sensor could be very difficult to get at. If you have a T-20 star socket for a socket wrench it should be easy, but if all you have is a 'bit' star driver (like the hex shaped ones that fit into the end of multipurpose screw drivers) you can insert the bit into the screwhead, and grab the bit with a wrench and turn it while you hold the bit into the screw head tightly. Once its has broken loose you can turn it with your fingers. |
|
Remove the throttle linkage cables. If you have a second cable it will be attached to the main linkage via a little plastic connector. This connector just pulls right off with minimum effort. To get the main cable loose from the TB, you just need to push the little round thing at the end of the cable out of the hole that its in at the bottom of the linkage. Once thats done it comes right off. Easy! |
|
If you haven't done the Throttle body coolant bypass mod, find the two rubber hoses going into the bottom of the throttle body and pull them
off by compressing the hose clamps and pulling on the hoses. If you've already done the bypass mod, those 2 hoses will already be removed.
Now, pull the hose off of the top of the throttle body (its a on the passenger side behind the throttle cable linkage). Once this is done, just remove the 3 10mm bolts that are holding the TB on. You will probably need to use the 3" socket extension to get the bottom two off. Now the TB should now come off. DONT LET ANYTHING GET IN THE HUGE HOLE THAT YOU'VE NOW CREATED! |
|
Now you should have the tb completly removed. Now would be the time to port your TB if you didn't buy a pre-ported one.
Go ahead and remount the sensors on your new throttle body, and rebolt it back to the intake with the 3 10mm bolts you just removed making sure
just to tighten them down snug...you don't need to make these super tight..over tightening can be worse than undertightning. Reattach
the throttle cables, the hose at the top of the TB, and the two wires that go to the sensors.
At this point its probably a good idea to have somebody hit the gas pedal opens the butterfly on the TB all the way, and make sure the pedal doesn't stick. If everything is A-Ok, go ahead and install the LID/MAF/TUBE assembly that was removed at the begining of the install and you're set to go. That wasn't so hard was it? |
So what was the point?
| Well, our Mike Morgan ported TB was quite a nice looking unit, and I can definitly see how it improves flow. He dyno tested this unit and saw between a 4rwhp and 7rwhp gain. Its nothing major, but as you know, every hp counts. There was no SOTP difference that I noticed, but I still feel the mod was worthwile. |