BMR Swaybar Install
E-mail jmX with corrections
- 13mm and 14mm deep socket and socket wrench
- 13mm and 14mm box end wrench
- 10mm gear wrench and 10mm socket (HIGHLY recommended, but not absolutely needed)
- Torque wrench
|Parts you will need:||
- BMR Front and Rear swaybars (Purchased from )
- All needed bushings and endlinks are included in the kit from BMR.
- Medium strength loctite
- Car Ramps (Rhino ramps recommended)
If you've been fortunate enough to drive a true modern sports car, you probably noticed how tight and responsive the car felt. While the F-body
may not be a true sports car, you can get it one step closer by upgrading the suspension. One of the key parts of the suspension is the stabilizer
bar, a.k.a the anti-swaybars or "swaybars" for short.|
The swaybars help transfer weight from one side of the car to another in a corner which in turn keeps the car flatter. A driver would notice this as less swaying, less body roll, more responsive steering, and most likely a change in the understeer/oversteer tendencies of the vehicle depending on which bars are used.
So, to make a stock F-body feel a little less like a leaning boat in the turns, we're going to upgrade the swaybars. We called up BMR Fabrication and ordered a set for our project F-body, a 1999 Trans Am with Eibach pro springs. The package consisted of both front and rear bars, along with all necessary bushings and a set of polyurethane bushed endlinks.
Here's a pic of the parts received in the BMR package:
|BMR Swaybars, Prothane Bushings, and Endlinks|
Front Bar Installation
|Included in the package from BMR were new Prothane brand polyurethane bushings and endlinks. Unwrap the two large red bushings that will be used to mount the front swaybar. In the package with the bushings is a packet of grease specially designed for use in this application. Tear open one of the grease packets and smear a liberal amount (maybe 1/4 of the package) inside both of the bushings for the front swaybar, as shown in the picture.|
So, we're ready to bolt the new bar up into place. First, find your 4 swaybar bracket bolts (they are 13mm) and apply just a dab of
loctite to all of them.|
Next, Slide under the car and grab the new bar and lift it into place. Make the 2 ends of the bar go back ABOVE the 2 A-Arms, and make sure the bend in the middle of the bar is bent down as shown in the picture. If it is bent upwards, then you have the bar in upside down!
Once the bar is lifted into place, try to get one of the metal brackets in place and get a bolt started. This part will be a little tricky if you are doing the job by yourself since the new BMR bar is quite a bit heavier than the stock one, but it can be done. Get all 4 bolts started (holding both of the brackets in place) and then stop.
Rear Bar Installation
That was easy huh? Either using the same packet of grease from the front install, or using the grease included with the rear bushings, squirt some
into the new red Prothane bushings for the rear bar and smear it around with your finger to make sure its all over the inside of the bushing. Once greased,
pry open the bushing and place it on the new bar in approximately the same location as the ones on the stock bar, making sure that the slit in the bushing
faces the rear of the vehicle.|
Now is a good time to compare how the new BMR bar compares to the stock stuff. The BMR bar is 21mm thick compared to the stock 19mm bar.